Baby Back & STL: Ribs through the Years

by: Chef Duce           

Barbecue, as I remember it growing up, was baby back ribs cooked on a huge 72-inch Weber Grill by my father “Chef Larry Raymond”. He and my uncle “Sweet Baby Ray” had it down to a science; they used 52 charcoal briquettes on each side of the grill, added a handful of soaked hickory woodchips on each side of the fire, and stood the 16-slabs of baby back ribs up on rib racks in the middle.

They cooked them for two and a half hours while rotating them from top to bottom and from the inside out. After they were finished they knocked the coals down and spread them out under the grill grate, then they brushed the ribs with Sweet Baby Ray’s and cooked them until they were bubbly and caramelized.

This is still what I remember when I smell charcoal burning and see baby back ribs smoking on a grill. Having grown up seeing, smoking, and eating baby back ribs I just didn’t think there could be a better alternative. But the slightly larger, meatier, and more flavorful cousin, the St. Louis Spare Rib, may be just that…

STL-style ribs are cut from the spare rib. The brisket bone and meat are cut off, leaving a long square slab of ribs. Here at Sweet Baby Ray’s we buy 2-and-down STL ribs, which means they will not be more than 2 pounds per slab, and they will have approximately 12 bones per slab. They are meaty and have a slightly higher fat content than baby back ribs.

The bones also differ. STL rib bones are larger, wider, and flatter than baby backs. When you slice in-between the bones of the STL rib you will notice that the majority of the meat rests on top of the bone rather than in-between the bones, as it is with baby back ribs. Almost all of the meat in baby backs are in-between the bones.

Regionally, STL ribs are much more popular in the south. And in my opinion, because they are less expensive and have more meat, they are a better value. We season our STL ribs with our own blend of spices and smoke them over young hickory wood for 3–3.5 hours. When they are finished smoking we put them on the grill and brush them with Sweet Baby Ray’s BBQ Sauce, just like my dad used to do. 

Baby back ribs, on the other hand, are cut from higher up on the back of the pig.  We use a peeled 2-and-down baby back rib at our restaurants. “Peeled” refers to the thin membrane being peeled off of the back of the ribs to allow the seasoning and smoke to penetrate both sides of the rib. The meat on baby back ribs is a little more lean and tender, and the bones are more curved than the bigger STL rib bones.

Another key difference is cooking time. Baby back ribs only take 2.5 hours in the smoker over young hickory wood, compared to the longer 3-3.5 hours that it takes the STL ribs. Regionally, baby back ribs are widely known and the clear favorite in Chicago and Memphis. In Memphis they call them loin back ribs. 

Despite the many differences between baby backs and STL ribs, I feel that both ribs are awesome when properly prepared. At Sweet Baby Ray’s we take great pride in our ribs. In the competitions we’ve participated in we have gained the most recognition and won the most awards for our ribs, including first place in the Naperville Rib Fest and a Silver Platter Award from Restaurant Industry News for the best ribs in the Chicagoland area, as voted on by our industry peers. We also have had the fortune to win multiple top ten rib finishes in KCBS sanctioned events.

From the backyard barbecues I had as a child to my uncle and father’s 2nd place finish in the 1985 Royko’s Rib fest that started our venture into the barbecue business, ribs have been and always will be a cornerstone of Sweet Baby Ray’s Barbecue and my personal barbecue passion.   

‘Tis the Season

Sitting at my desk on an unseasonably warm sunny day it is hard for me not to throw off work duties and run to my grill, to my smoker and reignite that flame. The beautiful flame that dances in the wind, that flame that teases and smolders….low and slow with the sweet smell of fruit and hardwoods. The slight sizzle, the smell of sugars and rubs, the distinct perfume of sauce on the grates permeating the air, that my friends, is barbecue to me.

Mind not the meat, whether it be pork or chicken, beef or shrimp, goose or venison, or for that matter tofu, Portobello caps, zucchini, or onions. To me it’s the process, it’s the labor of love, the trimming, the seasoning, stoking the coals, making the sauce, debating the methods, talking times and temperatures, to inject or not to inject, it’s brines, tumble marinades, wet rubs, dry rubs, vinegars, mustards, tomatoes, oh sauce…but wait some like it dry “Au Natural”. 

Barbecue as the art form is the tradition, the ceremony of taking a mere mortal meat and elevating it to an educational food. An educational food you ask? Yes. Eat a person’s barbecue and you learn about them, you discover their passions, their history, you learn what their favorite region is, where their barbecue roots took hold or perhaps where they have meandered. I like to think of a person’s barbecue as their fingerprints; while many are similar no two are the same. Each person has their own flavor profile, their own element in this culinary jigsaw puzzle, and because of the uniqueness of each person’s barbecue heritage, preparation for barbecue season is as varied as the methods themselves.

We are lucky enough to have two seasons of barbecue to prepare for: the competition barbecue, and the restaurant/catering barbecue season. These two are as different as they are the same. We prepare to pack up our wares and travel distances to showcase our passions, talents and abilities to compete for either the trophies and ribbons of competition, or the hearts and taste buds of our clients and their guests. In the end we hope to stand victorious at the end of a long process that takes love, passion, time, and care, an attention to detail, and most of all patience and a willingness to brave the elements. For both, we create checklists, packing lists, flavor profiles, and methods of preparation. We search out that perfect bite whether it be for a blind box judge or a party host. We strive to create a lasting memory, one that will leave us at the top of the list, the king of the coals. In all the many moving parts and four page packing lists, with the careful inspections of wood and meat, with the meticulous cleaning of smokers and equipment, with the sleep deprived mornings, the rainy nights, the long hours for reflection and camaraderie the most important preparation is often overlooked. Be prepared…… be prepared above all else, to have FUN!

Chef Dylan

The Women I Know in Barbecue

Not being a fool, I will start with my wife, Cathy, without whom I would be a fraction of the person that I am.

My real barbecue education began with reading Peace, Love and Barbecue, and that also began my amazing relationship with Ms. Amy Mills; great friend and barbecue mentor. Amy knows a lot, and does more than that. I also consider 17th street managers Becky and Lorie excellent people, managers, and friends.

Linda Orrison and Brooke Orrison of The Shed. I know them both, and as anyone and everyone in barbecue knows, they are both great. My good friend Linda has been around and seen things, and she cares deeply and is a woman of action.

Diva Q, ‘nuff said. But I’ll say more—Danielle has more passion, and maybe brains, than anyone I know in barbecue. Friends indeed.

(I am not done, I am only beginning, but I am already wondering who I will forget or leave out. The pressure is beginning to mount…)

A couple of years ago at the National BBQ Association I hung around with Diva, then Danielle introduced me to Phyllis Strawder, Mrs. Mista of Big Mista’s BBQ. Phyllis impressed the heck out of me when she told me she put herself through school as an adult and her degree was in finance. Phyllis refers to me, and most people, as ‘sweetie’ when in fact she is the ‘sweetie’. Diva also introduced me to Melissa Cookston of Yazoo’s Delta Q; 2010 Cooker of the Year and arguably the top hog cooker in barbecue. Melissa is tough, but sweet if she lets you get to know her, and very funny with a dry sense of humor. She tells me she is pretty far along with her book, which she intends to title, Smoking in the Boys’ Room.

Ms. Lee Ann Whippen of Wood Chicks is also the Executive Chef/Partner of Chicago Q, Chicago’s most elevated barbecue restaurant. Lee Ann is another barbecue lady I am honored to call a friend. I had the chance to get to know Lee Ann while driving with her back and forth to Memphis to take Melissa’s competition barbecue class. Lee Ann has another BBQ place in Virginia, all while still doing competitions and being Sammy’s (her daughter) mom.

Then there is Shelly from the east coast at Desperados BBQ. I got to know her better this year, and she is a savvy BBQ mind and person, as well as a mom of seven. I cannot begin to comprehend that.

I have also had the privilege of meeting and getting to know Ms. Carolyn Wells, co-founder and long time executive director of KCBS. I was blown away that she knew who I was. Before amazon.com I bought most of our BBQ books from her, before I even had a good understanding of what BBQ really is.

(I am running out of space but not friends, now is when I get to cheat a bit…)

I also want to include the women of competition teams like Leslie of Ubon’s BBQ, Diane (with 2 Skinny Cooks), Marla (Twyford BBQ), Roni (4 Legs Up BBQ), and lots of the wives and families I have met during competitions. Bo Fowler, Chef/Owner of Fat Willy’s, and other restaurateurs who show their metal every day on the job.

Bottom-line, I do know I have left out some of my friends and for that I sincerely apologize. But I do want to include two more…

Beth Kuczera of Equipment Dynamics, Inc. While not a true BBQ person, Beth is a BBQ fan and truly one of the best and brightest and she is my friend.

I’ve saved Nancy Irlbeck for last. Once again, not a true barbecue person, but she is the President of Sweet Baby Ray’s Barbecue Wood Dale, and our Sweet Baby Ray’s Catering Company, and True Cuisine Catering, and let me tell you—that cuts pretty deep with me.

Thank you ladies, one and all. My life and barbecue is much, much richer with, and because, of you.

Sweet Baby Ray

Across the BBQ Universe: Competition vs. Restaurant Pitmaster

As the Pitmaster and manager of Sweet Baby Ray’s Barbecue Restaurant in Wood Dale, IL and a die-hard competitive barbecue man for over a decade now, I found myself contemplating some things while driving home from work late one night. After engaging in a discussion with one of our regular customers, the thoughts that I had on my mind that night stemmed from a few simple and basic questions posed to me by one of our guests. What’s the difference between the way we cook for competitions and the way we cook for the restaurant? Which is more difficult? Which do I prefer? As it turns out, arriving at my answers to these questions was not nearly as simple as the questions themselves.

Now, before I attempt to address the specifics for each of these questions, I should take a minute to introduce myself and offer up a bit on my personal BBQ background. My name is John Bovinette and I have been the Pitmaster at SBR’s Wood Dale location since August of last year. I formed my first competition BBQ team in 2003 on which a friend and I competed in a small local rib contest. The following spring we entered into the World Championship Memphis in May competition. Since then, I have cooked in approximately 80 events in one form or another. I’ve cooked by myself, I’ve cooked with others on my team, I’ve cooked as a member of other cooking teams, and in one case I showed up to cook on a team that did not show up (ended up taking home a ribbon for that team… a story for another day).

Prior to joining the ranks of the BBQ weekend warriors, I spent endless amounts of time trying to perfect what I knew as BBQ. I grew up near St. Louis and can remember back to around 5 years old helping my dad in the backyard cooking pork steaks, links, pig snoots and occasionally ribs. For the most part, we smoked them slow, fire on one side, meat on the other and then we would baste them in a concoction of Maull’s BBQ Sauce doctored with brown sugar, mustard, a little ketchup and beer. We would in most instances use PBR or Schlitz beer, but my dad always seemed happier with the sauce when he had Old Style on hand. So there I would stand, squirt bottle in one hand, a basting brush and a half empty can of warm beer, waiting for the charcoal to flare up so I could squirt it down. Nearby hose ready for any real issues. My BBQ roots. Fire Starter- Firefighter.

So, back to the questions:

Question 1

What is the difference between the way we cook for competitions and the way we cook for the restaurant? From my standpoint, these by nature seem to be polar opposites. In competition, BBQ teams are doing everything you can possibly imagine to a piece of meat in order to find a way to get a flavor profile that will set their BBQ apart from their adversaries. Good or bad, that is the nature of the game.

Cooking for the restaurant, we keep the seasoning and cooking process to a more basic form. Our products have to appeal to the masses and at the same time limit exposure to items being too rich, too expensive and keeping known allergens at bay. That is as far as I am willing to go with the differences as this point. In future blogs I will address what I know as myths and what I know as facts about what is going on in competitions. To some it may be controversial and to some it may be enlightening. We will see.

Question 2

Which is more difficult? Both forms of cooking can be very difficult. Before I started in the restaurant business, I used to think the hardest thing in BBQ was to provide 4 turn in boxes with 4 different meats at 4 different times to be judged. Now everything my cooks and I do is judged. All day long, at any time and any item we have on our menu. Tall task! Either form, I go home whooped but with a certain satisfaction that I personally derive from being able to accomplish what we can and, for the most part, we accomplish it very well.

Question 3

Which do I prefer? I LOVE THEM BOTH! I am a very competitive person and I love everything BBQ, so competitive cooking was a natural fit for me. On the other hand, translating my BBQ skills to the restaurant business has definitely been challenging for me. I thought I would be able to come in here, cook meat and that would be the business. Didn’t know about the other million things to be done before we get to cook. Still learning! So as we move forward, for me, my primary objective whether competing, cooking in my backyard, or tending the pit at Sweet Baby Ray’s is the meat. It’s all about the BBQ Bubba! I want to serve the freshest, properly cooked BBQ possible.

THAT IS WHAT WE DO!

Thanks,

John

NBBQA 2012 San Diego & Operation BBQ Relief

It was another great convention from my point of view, and I will expound on that in my next blog. But for now, I would like to dedicate this blog to OPERATION BBQ RELIEF, INC.

The opening session this year began with the introduction of the founders of Operation BBQ Relief, Inc. OperationBBQRelief.org “Offering Compassion, Hope and Friendship to People in Need”

Stan Hays, one of founding members, had contacted me a couple of months earlier and we had agreed to meet and talk at the convention. It was a pleasant surprise to see and hear Stan and their organization’s very positive and highly inspiring story and message during the opening session.

“Joplin, MO (May, 2011)

In the wake of nearly unprecedented destruction in which more than 140 people died and more than 8,000 structures were completely destroyed, competition barbecue teams from eight states arrived to help feed displaced families and police, fire, National Guard and other emergency personnel.  The group served more than 120,000 barbecue meals in less than two weeks… that was 120,000 meals in less than two weeks!!! and OBR was born.”

Before they were through with their presentation I knew that it was something that I wanted to be a part of. And I felt strongly that the barbecue community in Chicago, and most everywhere, would want to jump on board and be part of this most worthwhile endeavor as well.

I mentioned this to Stan and asked him if he would send a representative up to talk to us, and he assured me that if he could not make it, someone would. Soon after, I ran into Andrew Bloom, of Wichita Packing fame, and he suggested that Wichita Packing would be interested and supportive of an enterprise like Operation BBQ Relief. I spoke to a few more people and we all seemed to agree that it was something we wanted to be a part of. 

It is my intention to try to invite my barbecue friends and the Barbecue Brethren to our place in Elk Grove to have a barbecue dinner, fun and interaction with each other, and to hear about how we can become part of, and contribute to, Operation BBQ Relief, Inc. I have been looking for a purpose for a few years now to get our barbecue friends together and help bring more awareness to Chicago barbecue. What could be a better way than Operation Barbecue Relief, Inc.

Please join me, talk to your friends and all of us barbecue people in the Greater Chicagoland Area and come on out and lets hear about, support and be part of this most worthwhile idea.

The Best of Barbecue: Beef Brisket

I spent four days in the Texas Hill Country four years ago researching BBQ (and Shiner Bock). I went with my Uncle, Sweet Baby Ray, and we went to 26 restaurants in four days and ate at 18 of them. This is where my passion for great brisket came from. We ate, hands down, some of the best brisket anywhere that week. The best of the best were: Louie Mueller’s, Taylor Café, Kreuz Market, and Cooper’s. We try to do right by their standards here at Sweet Baby Ray’s.

Beef Brisket is a great cut of meat for BBQ. The brisket comes from the front lower quarter of the cow. It is a well-marbled cut of meat that also has a fat cap. Brisket has two muscles; the first is called the flat, and the other is called the point, or deckle. 

The flat is a leaner piece of meat but still has inter-muscular fat to keep it moist. The deckle has much more inter-muscular fat and has a larger fat cap both underneath and on top. The flat is usually served sliced on a sandwich or platters. The deckle is most commonly used as chopped brisket or burnt ends. I always suggest smoking a whole packer brisket. They do sell the flat by itself, but I would not suggest buying this product. The cooking time will be faster, but the product will not be the same as cooking a whole brisket. 

            When prepping the brisket for smoking I am a proponent of trimming. There are two lines of thinking on this topic. The first is to leave all of the fat on the brisket so it renders and keeps the meat moist. The second is the way I think. My suggestion is to trim the two fat pockets on either side and trim the fat cap to a ¼-inch all around. The reason I suggest the trimming is because after the trimming is complete the rub is applied. If you didn’t trim your meat, then after the smoking process the meat needs to be trimmed to a certain extent, and the rub would be cut off along with some of the smoke penetration.   The easy way to say it is: if you trim first, you get out what you put in. All of the seasoning and all of the smoke stay with the meat. 

            After the meat is trimmed then we are ready to season and smoke. Here we season our brisket with our Texas rub. Typically a Texas rub has equal parts salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper. We put a few more secret spices in our blend, but it is still a basic seasoning. After seasoning we smoke our brisket in a Southern Pride Smoker at 210° for 10–14 hours depending on size and what else is cooking that day. We use hickory wood to flavor the meat. In the Hill Country in Texas many BBQ joints use Post Oak. (It is a common misconception that all the smoke within Texas is from Mesquite wood.)

When the brisket is ready and properly cooked it gets taken out of the smoker at about 195° internal temperature. The outside should be black or very dark brown and there should be a ¼-inch smoke ring on the meat as you cut into it. 

After the meat is cooked you have an opportunity to do something very special with the deckle… this is called Burnt Ends. Let the meat rest for about 30 minutes and then separate the two muscles. Re-season the deckle and put back into the smoker for about 2-3 more hours. Then when the deckle comes out, cut it into 1-inch cubes and lightly glaze with your favorite BBQ sauce (I will suggest Sweet Baby Ray’s!) These tasty morsels are burnt ends and they are just about the best tasting piece of BBQ you can put in your mouth.

My last suggestion for brisket would be keep it simple; seasoning, smoke, and a little sauce is all you need for great brisket. Just like anything in life the more time and effort you put into the brisket, the better results you will have.  

- Chef Duce